Saturday, April 30, 2016

Why Does Water Get in Your Basement?

Why Does Water Get in Your Basement?

This can range from a nuisance to a serious problem for a home, but before you call a company to spend large amounts of money, there are a couple simple things you should check.

The Roof is a Primary Source of that Water

First, where is the water coming from?  Much of it comes from your roof, a large watershed system. A 2,500 square foot roof receiving one inch of rainfall will deposit 1,500 gallons of water on the ground around your house. One foot of melting snow on your roof can also deposit 1,500 gallons of water. Valleys in your roof can concentrate it into small areas. If that water is not properly managed, it can end up in your basement.

How to Properly Manage Roof Runoff

Gutters
Starting from the top down, look at the gutters. Are they clogged? Are they pitched properly so the water runs to the downspouts? Are they leaking? Ineffective gutters will allow the water to flow over them onto the ground. They can also allow water to travel along the soffit and down into the walls.


A customer in Lake Geneva had an almost completely clogged gutter.


Downspouts
Next are the downspouts. Are they connected? How far from the house do the runouts extend? If only 6 inches to 2 feet, that water will end up in your basement. Consider adding extensions to direct the water at least 10 feet away from the house.


The runout for the downspout on this Fontana home is too short, even if it were connected.
Managing Water on the Ground

The ground around the house is a most important factor. Does the ground around the foundation of your home slope away from the house? If not, the water collects there, soaks into the ground and piles up against your foundation wall. The weight of this accumulated water creates “hydrostatic pressure” (i.e. “standing water” pressure). This pressure will force the water through the joint where the basement floor meets the wall, or any cracks or gaps in the wall. It will even force its way through the walls—especially more porous concrete block walls—causing them to “weep”. If this standing water freezes, its expansion can crack, bow or buckle the foundation wall.  

Creating a slope away from the house can reduce many basement water problems. The slope should be at least 1 inch per foot extending for 10 feet from the house. Make sure the soil is packed to reduce settling. A cap of clay over the soil can also be added.

This diagram shows the proper downspout runout and ground slope to move water away from your home.

Managing Water Underground

Ground Water
Even with proper sloping ground, there can still be water outside your foundation due to ground water. This is water that is flowing between layers of soil, or not absorbing immediately due to varying absorption rates of different types of soil (e.g. clay vs. loam). This is where a perimeter drainage system comes in.

Drain Tile
Your home should have drain tile around the “footing” of the foundation wall. Today this drain tile is usually in the form of a flexible plastic pipe with small holes, which allows water to seep into it. It collects the water outside the basement walls and channels it through a hole in the foundation wall and into the sump “well” (or sump “basket”). The pump sends the water out onto the ground, hopefully well away from the house.


This diagram shows a cross-section of drain tile on the footing of the foundation wall.

What if the Drain Tile Fails?

Over time this drain tile, if not properly installed, can fail due to clogging or tree roots. Here is a link to an excellent article that goes more in-depth into this subject.


Remedial Treatment
If the drain tile system is compromised or failed, then an interior solution may be necessary. These systems will make a narrow channel at the base of the wall to collect any water entering and channel it to the sump well. Basically they act as drain tile on the inside of the wall, collecting water after it has come into the basement.

Before you Spend a Lot of Money…

Before calling a waterproofing company, check your water management systems and the slope around your house. This will help to address the source of the water rather than after it is in your basement.
If you need your gutters cleaned, we offer that service. Please call us here at TLC Property Services at (262) 245-8828.

Next Post:  What About Sump Pump Backup Systems?

TLC Property Services is a division of TLC Cleaning Service, Inc.

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

BACKUP SUMP PUMP SYSTEMS

BACKUP SUMP PUMP SYSTEMS 

This is a closeup of a primary sump pump (bottom) witha backup pump mounted above it. If the primary pump fails, the backup will run to prevent flooding. 


The sump pump in your home is something you don't usually think about until there is a torrential rain--or it doesn't work. This is human nature, so an advisable thing to do is have a backup sump pump system. This is a second sump pump mounted above your primary pump that kicks in if the first one does not work--due to power outage, mechanical failure, or it just can't keep up.



Types of Sump Pump Backups--Battery and Water Powered


Battery Powered

The most common type is the battery backup. 

A typical battery used to power a backup sump pump


It runs off of a 12V deep cycle batterySome systems have a battery included and some don't. If you purchase the manufacturer's (more expensive) battery the warranty may be lengthened--usually increasing to 3 years. Even if it doesn't come with a battery it will have a plastic box to hold the battery you purchase (which are usually next to it on the shelf).

A typical battery backup
package, with the
indicator panel to
show the status.
The system comes with an indicator panel to give the status of the system, and it will also sound an alarm if the backup is called upon to run. 


One thing to investigate is if the backup runs only on battery power (12V DC) or if it can run on AC household power also. The reason it's important is if the primary pump fails for mechanical reasons, the backup can run off the house power indefinitely. If it can only run on the battery, it will stop once it drains the battery. 

The downside of battery backups is that they are only a short-term defense. Once the battery is discharged, they are of no help. If the power is off for longer than your battery life, you will have water in your basement. Which leads us to the other type of backup...


Water Powered

A less well-known type of backup is the water-powered backup. This is a pump that uses the municipal water supply to your home. When the water rises in the sump pit it turns on the house water, which then flows through a pump and is discharged outside of your home. The water running through the pump creates a suction (using the Venturi Principle) that draws the water out of your sump pit. Here is a video on how it works.




The advantage of this type of pump is that there is no battery that will run down after a number of hours. The municipal water supply is typically not affected by power outages, and so this backup can run indefinitely with a long-term power outage. 

I know of a home that was for sale and unoccupied. The owner received his water bill and couldn't figure out why it was so high. He discovered that his primary sump pump had failed and his water powered backup had been pumping the pit for the last month. The water bill was a lot cheaper than a cleanup and remodel in the house he was trying to sell!

The downside of this type of backup is it does not have the pumping capacity of a battery backup. Also, it is not compatible with homes that have well water, because the well pump will not run in a power outage. 


When buying any backup pump and looking at how much water it can pump in Gallons Per Hour (GPH), be sure to check what "head" it is pumping at. The "head" means how high up the pump has to push the water. Normally the sump pit is in the basement, so the water has to go up 10 feet to be discharged. So make sure you are not comparing GPH for one pump at 0 head and another at 10' head. Zero head is really a marketing trick to inflate the pump's GPH. Here is a typical chart showing the pumping capacity for a battery backup:

        GPH @ 0 feet:   1380 GPH         
        GPH @ 5 feet:   1380 GPH
        GPH @ 10 feet:   900 GPH     (Notice the drop to 900 GPH, 480 less than 0 head)
        GPH @ 15 feet:   300 GPH

If you are looking for a battery backup system, I would check out sumppumpsdirect.com.
It has ratings, recommendations, reviews, and staff to answer questions.

If you want us to handle finding the right backup system for your home and having a professional plumber install it, please call me at (262) 245-8828.

-John Rees
Property Services Manager



Friday, January 23, 2015

6 Furnace Failures


I have found 6 homes so far this winter with no heat. Every week I check homes for customers in our Winter Watch program, and I have found homes as cold as 35 degrees. In each case, thankfully, the problem was caught in time and no pipes froze and burst.
I found a Delavan Lake home at 37 degrees inside.  This was the easiest of fixes—the thermostat was set to the “off” position.  It was a simple human error with potentially expensive consequences.

Another home in Fontana was at 54 degrees. The furnace had been serviced only two days before, but then a circuit board in the furnace failed. This can happen at any time, with no direct cause. The primary factor in this case was the age of the furnace.
During below zero temperatures we make extra checks. On one morning when it was 6 below, I found a thermostat set at 62 but reading 60. At first glance it appeared fine, the blower was running, but the burner was not turning on. The problem in this instance was that the drain hose for the furnace was clogged. It tripped a sensor and shut off the burner but not the fan.

Here are some things you can do to prevent furnace failures:

Regular service–The first course of action is regular service by a qualified technician. Preventative maintenance and cleaning is necessary not only for furnace function but for safety to check for carbon monoxide leaks.

Consider an upgrade—A furnace may check out completely fine, but past performance is no guarantee of future results. If your furnace is not so new anymore you may want to take a proactive step and replace it. You will likely see an improvement in efficiency as well.

Invest in remotely controlled thermostats—these allow you to check your home’s temperature from your mobile phone. You can program these to send you a text message if the temperature drops below a threshold you set. These run about $250 per thermostat.

Have your home checked regularly—there is no substitute for physically showing up and inspecting a property, not only for furnace function, but for natural gas leaks, pest invasion, security, etc.

If you would like to have your home checked regularly, please contact me at (262) 325-5941 or at 1TLCclean@gmail.com.

-John Rees
Property Services Manager

 

 

Common causes of Furnace Failure

Thermostat set improperly
Power outage
Circuit breaker tripped
Clogged filter
Thermostat failure
Faulty pilot
Natural gas regulator failure
Age of furnace

 

Action Steps

Regular furnace service
Upgrade to a newer furnace
Remotely controlled thermostats
Regular home checks