Monday, December 5, 2016

Your Sump Pump--Is it Reliable? Are You Sure?



YOUR SUMP PUMP--IS IT RELIABLE? ARE YOU SURE?

How old is your sump pump? How long will your sump pump last? What quality of pump do you have?

If you are not sure, you may want to go down in the basement and spend some time getting to know your pump. It is one of those things that people often don’t think about until it stops working. It may be working fine now, but is it ready to handle a “100 year storm” (which we get every 3-4 years)?

You may think, “My plumber (or builder) installed it. They know what they are doing. It should be fine.” Well, “Trust, but verify” is always a good rule of thumb.

Here are some things to look for, and “best quality” recommendations if you are looking to replace it.


Turn on your pump’s switch and let it pump down the water so you can see it.

What kind of housing is the pump made of?





 



The model on the left (with the float switch removed for demonstration) is made entirely of cast iron, the recommended material. The heat is dissipated to the water and the motor doesn’t overheat (which leads to failure).


 



 

 

 

 

 

The model on the right is made of steel and plastic. If you go to the store and pick up each one, the cast iron is significantly heavier.











What about the switch? You can have the best model in the world, but if it doesn’t turn on you have water in the basement. The two most common types are the tethered float switch and the vertical, mechanical float switch (recommended).



This model has a tethered switch. It floats out to the side as the water level rises. It requires more space to travel and can get hung up on the basin wall. It can also leak and fill with water, preventing it from floating up.





 

This model has the preferred design: a vertical mechanical float switch. As the water level rises the white float rises and turns on the switch. Make sure the float is solid (not hollow), so it doesn’t leak, and that the arm it is attached to is made of metal.



If it has a screen, is it clogged with mud or pebbles?  Look for a model without a screen to avoid having this issue.

As far as the inner workings, it is hard to tell just by looking at it what level of quality it is. Basically, I would recommend a Zoeller pump. Here is a link to two very good videos from a waterproofing company that chooses to use Zoeller pumps.  Here is a link to another waterproofing company that has some very good videos on the subject as well.   

You should also test your pump if it hasn’t run in a while:
                Check that the plug is secure in the outlet.
                Remove the lid and use a flashlight to check for debris or mud (remove).
                Fill the sump basin with water and let it cycle a few times.
                Watch the switch to make sure it is moving freely. Listen for quiet operation.
                Check the outlet pipe to make sure it is clear and directing water away from your home.

Finally, pumps don’t last forever—5-10 years. They can fail suddenly. So if your pump is older—or you have no idea how old it is—it’s a good time to replace it. Let your plumber know what specifications you would like. Or if you do it yourself, take some time to read the fine print. The Gallons Per Minute (or Hour) ratings are for different “head” heights. That is, 10 feet of head means the pump is pushing the water up 10 feet in height , which is common for most basements. But manufacturers will put the GPM at 0 head on the box to make it look better than the competitors. Look for a chart on the side of the box and check the rate for 10 ft of head. This will give an apples to apples comparison.

If your home is in Walworth County, you have to be prepared for severe storms. Make sure your sump pump is ready for the test—before it comes.


Next Time: Sump Pump Backup Systems—Are you prepared, or lucky? And if you have one, are you really protected? Many are not. Find out why.

Tuesday, October 11, 2016

Cleaning Tips and Tricks--Shower Doors

Cleaning Tips and Tricks--Shower Doors 

 Keep Shower Doors Clean and Streak Free by Adding a Water Repellent Product 

Adding a product like Aquapel ($8) or Rain-X ($5) to the glass door will create an invisible film, causing water and soap to bead up and run off the glass. These products are available at home centers and auto parts stores. The products work for about 6 months.

1. Start by cleaning the glass with a glass cleaner.

2. For heavy build-up it may require scraping with a razor blade first. Be sure to wet the surface before scraping. Textured glass may require using a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser ($1) to work into the texture.

3. Dry the doors with a cloth.

4. Spray on the glass treatment and wipe it off with a microfiber cloth. (Overspray won't harm surrounding surfaces.) For the best results, squeegee the glass after bathing. 

Saturday, April 30, 2016

Why Does Water Get in Your Basement?

Why Does Water Get in Your Basement?

This can range from a nuisance to a serious problem for a home, but before you call a company to spend large amounts of money, there are a couple simple things you should check.

The Roof is a Primary Source of that Water

First, where is the water coming from?  Much of it comes from your roof, a large watershed system. A 2,500 square foot roof receiving one inch of rainfall will deposit 1,500 gallons of water on the ground around your house. One foot of melting snow on your roof can also deposit 1,500 gallons of water. Valleys in your roof can concentrate it into small areas. If that water is not properly managed, it can end up in your basement.

How to Properly Manage Roof Runoff

Gutters
Starting from the top down, look at the gutters. Are they clogged? Are they pitched properly so the water runs to the downspouts? Are they leaking? Ineffective gutters will allow the water to flow over them onto the ground. They can also allow water to travel along the soffit and down into the walls.


A customer in Lake Geneva had an almost completely clogged gutter.


Downspouts
Next are the downspouts. Are they connected? How far from the house do the runouts extend? If only 6 inches to 2 feet, that water will end up in your basement. Consider adding extensions to direct the water at least 10 feet away from the house.


The runout for the downspout on this Fontana home is too short, even if it were connected.
Managing Water on the Ground

The ground around the house is a most important factor. Does the ground around the foundation of your home slope away from the house? If not, the water collects there, soaks into the ground and piles up against your foundation wall. The weight of this accumulated water creates “hydrostatic pressure” (i.e. “standing water” pressure). This pressure will force the water through the joint where the basement floor meets the wall, or any cracks or gaps in the wall. It will even force its way through the walls—especially more porous concrete block walls—causing them to “weep”. If this standing water freezes, its expansion can crack, bow or buckle the foundation wall.  

Creating a slope away from the house can reduce many basement water problems. The slope should be at least 1 inch per foot extending for 10 feet from the house. Make sure the soil is packed to reduce settling. A cap of clay over the soil can also be added.

This diagram shows the proper downspout runout and ground slope to move water away from your home.

Managing Water Underground

Ground Water
Even with proper sloping ground, there can still be water outside your foundation due to ground water. This is water that is flowing between layers of soil, or not absorbing immediately due to varying absorption rates of different types of soil (e.g. clay vs. loam). This is where a perimeter drainage system comes in.

Drain Tile
Your home should have drain tile around the “footing” of the foundation wall. Today this drain tile is usually in the form of a flexible plastic pipe with small holes, which allows water to seep into it. It collects the water outside the basement walls and channels it through a hole in the foundation wall and into the sump “well” (or sump “basket”). The pump sends the water out onto the ground, hopefully well away from the house.


This diagram shows a cross-section of drain tile on the footing of the foundation wall.

What if the Drain Tile Fails?

Over time this drain tile, if not properly installed, can fail due to clogging or tree roots. Here is a link to an excellent article that goes more in-depth into this subject.


Remedial Treatment
If the drain tile system is compromised or failed, then an interior solution may be necessary. These systems will make a narrow channel at the base of the wall to collect any water entering and channel it to the sump well. Basically they act as drain tile on the inside of the wall, collecting water after it has come into the basement.

Before you Spend a Lot of Money…

Before calling a waterproofing company, check your water management systems and the slope around your house. This will help to address the source of the water rather than after it is in your basement.
If you need your gutters cleaned, we offer that service. Please call us here at TLC Property Services at (262) 245-8828.

Next Post:  What About Sump Pump Backup Systems?

TLC Property Services is a division of TLC Cleaning Service, Inc.

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

BACKUP SUMP PUMP SYSTEMS

BACKUP SUMP PUMP SYSTEMS 

This is a closeup of a primary sump pump (bottom) witha backup pump mounted above it. If the primary pump fails, the backup will run to prevent flooding. 


The sump pump in your home is something you don't usually think about until there is a torrential rain--or it doesn't work. This is human nature, so an advisable thing to do is have a backup sump pump system. This is a second sump pump mounted above your primary pump that kicks in if the first one does not work--due to power outage, mechanical failure, or it just can't keep up.



Types of Sump Pump Backups--Battery and Water Powered


Battery Powered

The most common type is the battery backup. 

A typical battery used to power a backup sump pump


It runs off of a 12V deep cycle batterySome systems have a battery included and some don't. If you purchase the manufacturer's (more expensive) battery the warranty may be lengthened--usually increasing to 3 years. Even if it doesn't come with a battery it will have a plastic box to hold the battery you purchase (which are usually next to it on the shelf).

A typical battery backup
package, with the
indicator panel to
show the status.
The system comes with an indicator panel to give the status of the system, and it will also sound an alarm if the backup is called upon to run. 


One thing to investigate is if the backup runs only on battery power (12V DC) or if it can run on AC household power also. The reason it's important is if the primary pump fails for mechanical reasons, the backup can run off the house power indefinitely. If it can only run on the battery, it will stop once it drains the battery. 

The downside of battery backups is that they are only a short-term defense. Once the battery is discharged, they are of no help. If the power is off for longer than your battery life, you will have water in your basement. Which leads us to the other type of backup...


Water Powered

A less well-known type of backup is the water-powered backup. This is a pump that uses the municipal water supply to your home. When the water rises in the sump pit it turns on the house water, which then flows through a pump and is discharged outside of your home. The water running through the pump creates a suction (using the Venturi Principle) that draws the water out of your sump pit. Here is a video on how it works.




The advantage of this type of pump is that there is no battery that will run down after a number of hours. The municipal water supply is typically not affected by power outages, and so this backup can run indefinitely with a long-term power outage. 

I know of a home that was for sale and unoccupied. The owner received his water bill and couldn't figure out why it was so high. He discovered that his primary sump pump had failed and his water powered backup had been pumping the pit for the last month. The water bill was a lot cheaper than a cleanup and remodel in the house he was trying to sell!

The downside of this type of backup is it does not have the pumping capacity of a battery backup. Also, it is not compatible with homes that have well water, because the well pump will not run in a power outage. 


When buying any backup pump and looking at how much water it can pump in Gallons Per Hour (GPH), be sure to check what "head" it is pumping at. The "head" means how high up the pump has to push the water. Normally the sump pit is in the basement, so the water has to go up 10 feet to be discharged. So make sure you are not comparing GPH for one pump at 0 head and another at 10' head. Zero head is really a marketing trick to inflate the pump's GPH. Here is a typical chart showing the pumping capacity for a battery backup:

        GPH @ 0 feet:   1380 GPH         
        GPH @ 5 feet:   1380 GPH
        GPH @ 10 feet:   900 GPH     (Notice the drop to 900 GPH, 480 less than 0 head)
        GPH @ 15 feet:   300 GPH

If you are looking for a battery backup system, I would check out sumppumpsdirect.com.
It has ratings, recommendations, reviews, and staff to answer questions.

If you want us to handle finding the right backup system for your home and having a professional plumber install it, please call me at (262) 245-8828.

-John Rees
Property Services Manager